Urrbrae Agricultural College, Fri Mar 24 – Sun Mar 26

It may seem unusual to be reviewing something outside the traditional realms of the arts, but as an avid motoring enthusiast and classic car buff, I figured why not? It’s an easy extension of the definition of art to include motor cars, especially when you’re talking about vehicles from a bygone era where chrome was king, and some cars were big enough to have their own postcode! The detail that goes into a motor vehicle is certainly an art-form, and the act of restoration a craft.

Design is artistic by its very nature, and the mechanical and engineering prowess required to make some of these vehicles panders to my mathematical and scientific side. If music is your art of choice, I would argue that the sound of a V8 is pure symphony! Plus, there’s an interesting set of sub-cultures that swirl around motoring circles, like rock’n’roll and pinups, especially at an event like the Adelaide Chrysler Festival.

The Fringe and Festival may be over for another year, but it looks like March wasn’t quite ready to shake the ‘Mad’ prefix just yet, with the Adelaide Chrysler Festival squeezing in right at the end and capitalising on the season. It’s obviously a very different kind of festival to the theatrical/musical/comedic ones, but a festival no less and one that pays homage to what I consider the finest form of art, craft and engineering: the motor car.

The Chrysler Festival has been around for many years now, though under a different guise being a single car-show-day with some additional events tagged on. This year, it has expanded to a full festival format that celebrates everything from the lesser of the American and Australian big-three. Lesser in volume perhaps, but not lesser in art and innovation… but I digress. So, what comprises such a festival? For the uninitiated, it generally revolves around a bunch of passionate car people spending countless hours making shiny cars even shinier, driving around Adelaide in their pride and joy, putting on a display of their vehicles, and a plethora of other events and activities surrounding the car mainstays. Like any festival, there are various displays, activities, and usually a musical component too.

Rock’n’roll is a strong ally of motoring culture, and for this year’s Adelaide Chrysler Festival, community radio Coast FM (who has a bit of a penchant for rock’n’roll and tunes of an older vintage) came on board as a supporter and broadcast live from the events.

Having a family focus meant that kids had motoring-themed activities, including one for all the budding mechanics out there who had to correctly install a set of spark-plug leads to a Valiant engine head as quickly as possible! But of course, the key focus of the Festival was motor cars, and there were plenty of them to see! Adelaide was once home to Chrysler Australia, who had the largest manufacturing plant in the southern hemisphere at one point, and were certainly leaders in motoring innovation and engineering.

For me, the Festival kicked off on Friday, when a bunch of ex-Chrysler engineers gave a talk about some of the innovations developed right here in Adelaide, including one of the world’s first production digital emission control systems. Very impressive stuff! The following day centred around a car cruise that took in the southern hills, and had around 250 gleaming Chryslers on display. A vast majority of those were made right here in Adelaide, which makes this event something special for the marque, and the cruise took in one of the old plants used by the car maker back in the ’60s and ’70s. There were plenty of American cars out and about too, which is always great to see, and a contrast to what was happening here in Australia.

The cruise event culminated in the western ’burbs, and given the fine weather we have this year, fans of other car makers also out cruising joined in for some friendly banter, turning up in Holdens, Camaros, and even the odd Mustang.

If you’ve never experienced such an event, think of it like The Fast and The Furious, but without the racing and the tension (or criminal activity!). It’s pretty good fun!

The headline act of the festival was the ‘All Chrysler Day show and shine’, where some 200-odd cars were out on display, again showcasing a lot of what was produced right here in Adelaide. There were all kinds of Valiants, American Dodges, Plymouths, and even a Hilman and a Galant or two (including mine!). The theme of the event was ‘Then and Now’, so the old Valiant and American muscle was contrasted against what Chrysler is making now, with people bringing out some of their more recent Chrysler cars, including some that have been imported from the States, like a very impressive Dodge Challenger, currently the most powerful production car in the world!

The weather may have been hot and stinking humid, but it wasn’t enough to dampen any spirits (only underpants!), and a great day was had by all! I loved having my two Valiants out on show. If you’ve never been to a car show before, give it a go as you may discover you’ll have a really great time!

Luke Balzan

When: 24 to 26 Mar

Where: Urrbrae Agricultural College

Bookings: Open event

Indian

The joy of a creative new restaurant is that it offers wild and glorious adventures right here at home.

Cinnamon Club took off from the outset - which was a hole-in-the-wall affair in the little Norwood backstreet beside the thriving Argo.

Word soon spread that it was offering something really special, that it had links to one of the city's most renowned Indian restaurants, that its prices were fair...

The next thing one knows, it has more than quadrupled in size by moving into the large Norwood Parade premises which used to be the Malaysian fusion restaurant, Hazara.

With a massive mural on one wall, a sparking bar and a snazzy lounge waiting area at the front, it bustles with new life and an array of mainly Indian female wait staff who zip, zap and are as informed and helpful as they are efficient.

Word does not take long to travel in Adelaide. My first attempt to book a table there was thwarted by the “sorry, we're booked out" response. Silly me. It was Saturday. Next attempt was spontaneous. We walked in off the street early on a week night evening and were welcomed to a lovely table for two.

Straight away, the impression is warm and relaxing.

Wine and water were ordered and swiftly delivered as we perused the massive menu wherein we discovered that, had we been inclined, we could have prefaced the meal with astonishing cocktails. Oh, what an array - Cinnamon Club Fireball, Punjabi Fling, Indian Mystery, Cinnamon Club Painkiller, Indian Raj...

Fortunately, the wine list also is pleasing with interesting French wines in amongst a quality South Australian selection.

Slightly overwhelmed by the generous options of the menu, we sought advice from our waiter, who, without hesitation, recommended the starter speciality of the house, Roasted Papadum Rolls with stuffings of chicken or paneer.  We chose one of each. They came with shot glasses of lovely hot soup - slow cooked lamb trotter or South Indian Tomato Pepper Broth. 

The papadums came as delicate, crispy cones, stuffed to the brim with light, flavoursome filling; the paneer was fresh and delicate; the trotter shot had a classic lamb flavor in a lightness of fluid. 

 A triumphant start.

The restaurant was filling up steadily but the hubub was tolerable and the staff seemed to be nurturing the needs of every table. One could hear careful explanations of exotic foods and a thoughtful pairing of dishes to the tastes of "not-too-hot-please" and "let-me-sweat" customers. 

Many variations on a theme of street food feature on the menu - Keema Pao on toast, Tangy Chickpea curry, Chaat choices, fish in three styles...

Avid chili-lovers, we zeroed in on Four Faces of Vindaloo. Our waitress approved and suggested we contrast this with the gentler flavours of the Duck with Fig Sauce curry. Another wise and wonderful recommendation.

The vindaloos were presented in a raised platter popped in the centre of the table. The chicken curry was peppery and moreish. The beef was dense and delicious. The beetroot lamb in its thick red sauce was unbearably delicious and we found ourselves jealously guarding our shares, albeit the lamb was a bit chewy. The fourth face of vindaloo was a stuffed green chili. It was rather a surprise - tangy and not too hot.

As for the duck with its blessing of fig flavour, it had a subtle sweetness that did not cloy, a creamy sauce that did not feel too rich and plenty of duck for two. All this with a small amount of rice and some light raita left us feeling cosy, contented but not too replete to miss sampling the dessert menu.

Hence, we chose the Chef's Choice Mixed Platter for two which featured two sensational kulfis, a classic Indian sweet carrot dish and, oh my, who would have imagined it? Chocolate samosas.

I could never have thought of anything more appallingly rich, unlikely and unapproachable and I would never have ordered it of my own accord. Now I can't wait to go back and have it again, and again. This hot, fried pastry, quite light and delicately crisped on the outside, was filled with absolutely the best quality of gorgeous dark, hot, melty chocolate. One tried to make it last and last, to savour it and wish it would never end.  What a surprise it was - yet another guarantee that one would return.

Then menu is extensive. The prices are reasonable - mains from about $14 - $20

Samela Harris

Where: 211 The Parade, Norwood, SA 5067

Trading: Tuesday to Saturday 12pm til late

Sundays 5pm til late

Website: http://www.cinnamonclub.net.au/

Contact: (08) 8431 3311

Min free delivery $35

Online orders accepted

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Lunch Review
Asian

After a brief absent stint from the restaurant scene to focus on my own culinary creations, I felt that it was time to jump back on the horse and bring you another semi-regional review. With my friend Jarrod flying in from Melbourne, I saw the perfect opportunity to head out to the picturesque and world renowned Barossa Valley to show him the sights and tease his tastebuds with amazing food and wine.

After picking Jarrod up from the airport, we took a leisurely one hour drive out to Tanunda to meet Greg and Alex, both who work in the wine industry and highly recommended the venue of choice, FermentAsian. The restaurant, which is situated in the main street, is housed in a stately home displaying German heritage charm.

Walking through the heavy solid door to the restaurant, I was struck by a heavenly waft of intense aromas which took me back to food safari’s I have done through South East Asia. This first impression created a rush of desire to get stuck into the menu on offer.

Taking our seats we were greeted and given our food menus along with what can only be described as a wine bible, rather than list, made up of a comprehensive 56 pages. Thankfully Alex brought a 2010 La Follette Pinot Noir with him, saving us all a lengthy delay and a simple starting choice of a refreshing Prancing Pony Ale or Lord Nelson Pale Ale. The restaurant has a reasonable $15 corkage fee, which is ideal for those who have come straight from purchasing wine at their favourite cellar door.

After hardly scouring the menu due to too much conversation, we were asked if we would like to have the house favourites. In what I can only describe as a first, I refreshingly discovered a restaurant that offers to serve their signature dishes in a suggested menu; this is normally something I would request in an attempt to test the waiting and kitchen staff. We received the following dishes (in order of service):

Thit lon cuon la lot: Fresh betel leaves with sticky caramelised pork and incendiary components.
Bo Wagyu cuon la lot: Grilled Wagyu beef in betel leaves.
Nen Ha Noi: Hanoi spring rolls with salad of fresh herbs and classic Vietnamese dipping sauce.
Tom sao ot: Stir fried SA squid with chilli jam and Thai basil.
Goi bo den: Grilled Barossa Black Angus beef with salad of fresh herbs.
Lon voi gung va cam: Barossa Berkshire pork belly with ginger and orange sauce.
Ca ri vit: Red duck curry with lychees and pineapple.

From the moment the first dish was placed in-front of us the delicious looking presentation kicked my salivary glands into overdrive. With sight and smell taken care of it was time for my tastebuds to make the final test; I am pleased to say they were not disappointed. The flavours were outstanding, and took me on a culinary journey back to my street food tours of Asia.

The betel leaves with caramelised pork was a wonderful small, sweet start awakening the palate and leaving it wanting more. With the grilled Wagyu in betel leaf and Hanoi spring rolls following quickly thereafter I became more flabbergasted by the pungent, succulent ingredients that were used.

The freshness of each dish is a key characteristic of any Vietnamese food, but after reading that the majority of fresh vegetables and herbs used in the menu are from their very own garden I felt an even stronger sense of awe and appreciation. The restaurant also ensures that they utilise as much local produce as possible from producers who have the same ethical beliefs that they do.

As we moved through the menu, some sweeter and more concentrated flavours started to shine, especially in the stir-fried squid with chilli jam, Barossa Berkshire pork belly and red duck curry with lychees and pineapple. The rich flavours were once again complimented and at the same time softened by the fresh aromatic herbaceousness of the garden greenery.

The servings may not have appeared generous, but as lunch came to a close it was evident that the precise required amount had been served. The balanced complexity of each dish gave great insight into the Vietnamese culture, accurately depicting that which you might find on the streets and in local restaurants of Asia; the supplementary Australian infusion worked wonderfully and demonstrated a successful mix of cultures has been mastered by the owners.

With more traditional German and modern Australian fare generally the only offerings throughout the region this lively, modern establishment is highly regarded and recommended by locals, industry folk and now also by me! Book yourself a local tour of Vietnam right here in our legendary and celebrated ‘backyard’ at the exclusive FermentAsian in the Barossa Valley.

Darren Richards.

Average Menu Pricing
Vegetarian $8.00 - $22.00
Seafood $16.00 - $31.00
Meat $14.00 - $26.00
Dessert $10.00 - $12.00

Where: 90 Murray Street, Tanunda, SA, 5352
Trading: Lunch Thursday to Sunday 12pm – 2:30pm
Dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6.00pm - 9.30 pm
Other times by prior arrangement
Website: fermentasian.com.au
Contact: (08) 8563 0765
Email: bookings@fermentasian.com.au

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Dinner Review
Authentic Italian

After a relaxed lunch at Mr Mick’s Kitchen and an afternoon probing the township of Clare for local produce to take back home, it was time for Alexandra and I to move on to our dining destination in the state heritage listed, copper mining town of Burra. Usually better known for its ‘pub grub’, Burra is now home to approximately 1,400 people and a restaurant which could initially be referred to as ‘out of place’.

La Pecora Nera or The Black Sheep when translated to English, is a traditional Italian osteria restaurant which is owned and run by Paolo and Clare Vitozzi. The couple met in Tuscany before moving back to South Australia and setting up shop in Burra roughly 18 months ago. As South Australia is home to many Italian people and restaurants, I was looking forward to discovering how accurate the use of the word ‘authentic’ would be.

Housed in the old Burra Bazaar, La Pecora Nera looks, from the outside, like an oversized tin shed. Stepping inside, it soon becomes very clear that the depiction encountered outside fits perfectly with the traditional styling of the interior. You immediately feel the warmth, not only from the eye-catching clay brick pizza oven, but also the friendly and homely nature of the staff.

Browsing over the menu it was clear that pizza was a big deal in this establishment, but I was curious as to what other delicacies I would be tempted by. Unlike the more formal ristorante and semi-casual trattoria, an osteria is a very casual and relaxing eatery offering a more local and non-formal menu with spontaneous daily specials. Here the definition could not be truer - you even serve yourself drinks from the old pull handle fridge; wasting no time, I wandered over and helped myself to Menabrea Birra to familiarise myself with the process and sample an ale from abroad.

Agreeing on a shared option, Alexandra and I decided on the following dishes:

Starter:    Antipasti – Caprese e Salumi (mozzarella & tomato salad and cured meat).
Main:    Pasta – Broccoli e parmegiano (broccoli and parmesan).
    Pizza – Prosciutto e funghi (prosciutto ham and mushroom).

Watching Paolo work in the open kitchen whilst munching on crusty, garlic infused bread was entertainment enough, but choosing to sit at the table closest to the piano and record player, provided the added responsibility of being in-house DJ’s. With a large selection of old vinyl, it was an interesting, interactive addition to the evening, providing some randomly appropriate music to what had now started  to feel like a journey to another country rather than rural town.

Having two large oval plates of anti-pasti placed in front of us left us wondering how we would fit it in, let alone the 2 mains we had ordered. I immediately steered for the salumi antipasti, which was made up of mortadella, coppa collo, salami, prosciutto and marinated mushrooms. It tasted sensational and had my mouth working with its salty, smokey cured intensity.

Utilising my crisp beer to reacquaint my tastebuds, I moved onto the caprese plate. The tomato was ripe, firm and wonderfully sweet whilst the mozzarella was subtle and almost marshmallow like. Drizzled with olive oil and garnished with torn basil, the freshness of this dish was a direct contrast to the salumi, making them the perfect accompaniment to each other.
Glancing over at the neighbouring table, we noticed the gigantic proportion of the pizza. We may have overestimated our post lunch hunger and miscalculated the enormity of the pizza oven. Before we had a chance to allow the starter to digest, we were presented with our almost table-sized pizza and serving of broccoli pasta.

I sprinkled some olive oil over my pasta which, as any traditional Italian pasta should be, was quite minimal with topping. The silky soft ribbons of egg pasta were undoubtedly homemade; the slight sensation of chilli came through on the back palate without overpowering the true essence of the broccoli and freshly grated parmesan. This dish didn’t clog, clutter or congest my stomach anywhere near as much as first anticipated, which was fortunate due to the whopping great pizza that still sat before us.

With a well timed break to change the record to an aptly chosen Dusty Springfield I returned, gasped with anticipation, and took my first bite from the gigantic wedge of prosciutto and mushroom pizza. The thin hand-thrown base with appropriately measured coverings of napolitana and mozzarella, allowed the flavours of the toppings to pervade. This is the type of pizza you would expect from an establishment who labels themself as authentic - you truly get a sense of what you would be eating in Italy.

Pushing our plates away to stop ourselves from gorging any further, we were offered coffee to conclude the evening. We graciously agreed and ordered a macchiato and cappuccino. To further tempt me, I was asked if I would like a shot of grappa in my short caffeinated concoction. Unfortunately, due to driving, this wasn’t an option and neither was the generous offer of Limoncello, which left me wondering why I decided not to stay in the region overnight.

In such a relaxed and hospitable environment, it was hard to leave, however after ordering another 2 coffees and holding the staff back from knocking off, we felt it was time to release them from their duty. There is no doubt I was in another place, maybe not Italy but I had certainly been taken on a journey of epic proportion without having to leave this incredible state of South Australia.

Although the mining boom has long departed from this once bustling town, it surely won’t be declining any further with a wonderfully quaint Italian osteria such as this in it. With so many fascinating places to visit in SA, I recommend you add this to your list and discover more of our state’s history.  Simply yet sufficiently put, Salute!

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Pizza $12.00 - $17.00
*Daily Specials and prices

Where: 3 Upper Thames Street, Burra, SA 5417
Trading: Wed to Sun for Pranzo (Lunch) 12pm – 2pm and Cena (Dinner) 5.30pm - 8.30pm
Website: blacksheepburra.com
Contact: (08) 8892 2886 (for bookings - 0400 516 896)
Email: blacksheepburra@gmail.com

Lunch Review
Tapas

After a failed first attempt dining at Mr Mick’s Kitchen in Clare back in February, I was convinced by a Clare Valley local, Alexandra Milner-Smyth, that it was undoubtedly worth the return journey to taste some of the Tapas creations on offer at Tim Adam’s restaurant. Having previously sipped my way through the majority of the wine list at the Cellar door during my Riesling Trail expedition in February, I knew that their wines were a decent standard, which made me optimistic.

Arriving at Mr Mick’s Kitchen after the leisurely drive from Adelaide, I was greeted by the picturesque and historic Leasingham production complex which has now been converted to accommodate the restaurant and cellar door, housing the stately spirit still which sits so sparkling in the corner. Not to remove its grandeur of yesteryear, the outer retains its former glory with creepers which gently cover the facade.

Being first to arrive at 12:30pm, the staff gave me a choice of table and promptly provided the menus and offered drinks including table water. Our waitress went through the tapas concept and advised us that generally four shared plates would be a good starting point. I asked for a wine recommendation that would be a refreshing palate cleanser, and was directed towards the Pinot Gris, which was exactly what I was hoping for.

Alex and I scouted the menu and agreed to choose 2 items each. Keen to evaluate the staff’s knowledge of the menu, I decided to choose one dish and allow them to select the other. We ordered the following (in order of service):

Fritto: Tender crisp fried salt & pepper calamari with lemon aioli (staff choice).
Spring Roll: House made roasted duck & Asian vegetable spring rolls with chilli plum sauce.
Haloumi: Cyprus-style cheese, pan fried with caramelised onion, pear and rocket.
Pork: Twice cooked pork belly with an apple puree & Adelaide Hills cider glaze.

I was interested that the fritto was the choice of the waitress, as I would generally expect a more adventurous dish - assuming the salt & pepper squid would be the standard lightly floured mollusc meat you can get on almost any menu. How wrong I was! Although the seasoned dust may have been universally consistent, the tender texture was like none I’d had before. It was almost as if it was literally melting as it touched my tongue.

With almost simultaneous transition, the duck spring rolls arrived just as we finished devouring the fritto. The spring rolls were hot and crisp with a light tanning on the outer wrapper. Using my fork to compress the contents of the casing, I was pleasantly surprised with the lack of oil you would usually associate with deep fried food. This was a sign of the oil being correctly heated to optimum temperature to ensure the filling is cooked, whilst not burning the exterior or leaving a saturation of greasy residue. The duck was flavoursome and well complimented by a slightly spicy and sweet plum sauce.

Out next came the haloumi, which would typically be quite salty and served with lemon wedges, yet when the order was placed in front of us, it was obvious that this wasn’t a traditional style serve. With a light brown pan-fried outer crust, shaved pear and golden slivers of caramelised onion the Cyprus-style cheese was a welcoming sight and smell. The slightly leathery consistency of the cheese, crispness of the pear, sweet stickiness of the onion combined with the peppery rocket created a mouthful marriage of varying flavours.

Unexpectedly our final dish was delivered by the head chef, Gus Barlow. Unbeknownst to Gus, the pork belly was my personal choice - it is dish that, when seen on a menu, is hard to divert from. As he set the plate on the table, he made comment that this dish was “him on a plate”. A big call, but with the alluring aroma and portrait ready presentation, I was hardly going to argue. The proof would be in the pudding, or more so the pork in this case.

Laid at the end of a bed of apple puree and a puddle of Adelaide Hills apple cider glaze, the pork belly was ready to be devoured. The first incision left me disappointed. Where was the shattering crackle of the rind? Once I moved beyond this, the disappointment soon turned to elation as the gelatinous texture of the pork was perfect and almost let me forgive missing out on my treasured crackling. For $16.00 a plate, I was also left expecting more, especially given it was a shared serve.

As we were once again greeted by Gus asking how the pork belly rated, I provided the above mentioned feedback which was received constructively. He asked if we would like another dish in an almost forgiving manner. We agreed and I asked for his recommendation. He quickly motioned the crab (Crisp fried soft shell baby mudcrab drizzled with a star anise & orange glaze). I was excited that he had chosen this as it can be a more risky dish if overcooked.

To keep in tradition with dining at a winery, I chose another wine from the list. The Rose looked to be the perfect accompaniment to what was to come. Almost immediately the wine and soft shell crab arrived. An instant sensation of excitement came over me as the fragrance from the orange and anise lingered providing an insight of the flavours to come. Gus had certainly resurrected himself through this dish; with an almost contradictory crisp softness and without any sludgy spongy crab it was delicious.

Faith was now restored and my smile preserved after an almost faultless lunch. The staff were extremely friendly and at our service as required without being overbearing. I am an advocate of the shared lunch scenario; it allows you to try more over a longer period providing better digestion and more insight to the restaurant’s capabilities. This is definitely a great place for a swift snack or extended eat. From what I’m told, it is also a fantastic Friday night destination for a few drinks and a nibble after the working week or the start to a weekend escape.

More commonly known for their radiant Riesling and sublime Shiraz, the Clare Valley has certainly captured my attention for creating some fantastic food and local produce. I’m hoping that this trend continues and that more city-dwellers, interstate and international visitors make the effort to journey another 45 minutes past the Barossa to be enticed by a region steeped in history and architecture mixed with exquisite wine and restaurants showcasing contemporary cuisine.

Darren Richards

Average Tapas Menu Pricing
Starters $8.00
Seafood $8.00 - $12.00
Meat $9.00 - $16.00
Vegetarian $7.00 - $10.00
Accompaniments $1.00 - $8.00
Dessert $8.00 - $10.00

Where: 7 Dominic Street, Clare, SA, 5453
Trading: Lunch Monday to Sunday 11am - 4pm and Friday 11am - 7pm
Website: mrmick.com.au/kitchen.html
Contact: (08) 8842 2555
Email: reservations@mrmick.com.au

Lunch Review
Healthy Alternative

I was planning to meet a mate I hadn’t seen in a while and we were looking for something healthier than the usual pub schnitzel & beer combination. A friend had mentioned a restaurant, promoting a healthy lifestyle and food, a couple of months earlier; it was Earth’s Kitchen on Pirie St. After looking into the venue I discovered they were offering of a paddock to plate program where they grow, pack and serve produce straight from their Meadows farm with ethically raised, organic meat, vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free meals and even sugar-free desserts.

Strolling into the establishment around 12:30pm, the funky venue had a light buzz. Seated right near the front counter it gave me a birds-eye view of the kitchen and service area which was being run two kitchen staff, one floor staff and one taking orders at the register. A steady flow of patrons continued to mosey in and out, filling the establishment to just over half capacity as the lunchtime clock wound on. With meal orders not being taken at the table, the ever-growing line crowded the tables closest to the counter; for those seated in this location this can be quite uncomfortable.

My companion and I agreed on a shared lunch so we could sample a number of plates. With 3 choices each of entree, salad and pizza we ordered the following:

Starter: Grazing Board - warmed olives, pumpkin and zucchini balls in sweet tomato sauce, Barossa valley chorizo, SA cow feta and house baked flat bread
Main: Herb roasted pumpkin salad – Pearl barley, KI lentils & baby spinach finished with spiced yoghurt
Marinated beetroot salad – Tasmanian quinoa, feta, baby spinach, roasted local nuts and mint with mustard and balsamic vinaigrette and sour dough
Tandoori chicken pizza – roasted free-range organic chicken with tandoori sauce, shaved red onion and mozzarella, served with yoghurt and fresh coriander

The grazing board was definitely a wise choice. It had a fantastic assortment of nibbles to get the salivary juices flowing. The zucchini balls were delicate in flavour and amazingly light in consistency. They melted in the mouth and were well complimented by the mild sweetness of the tomato sauce. The chorizo was flavoursome and slightly spicy, which when added to the creaminess of the feta created a sensational contrast of flavour and texture.

With no table water provided during the entree plate, I glanced over the drinks menu to find a refreshing beverage and admired the fact that their operational objective didn’t stop at the sourcing and serving of their food, but was also incorporated into their selection of drinks. From the tea and coffee to soft drinks, ciders beers and wines, they offered certified organic, preservative free, biodynamic and even vegan alternatives; we selected a Pheonix organic ginger beer from New Zealand.

The wait on pizza and salads seemed unusually lengthy at approximately 45 minutes. The pizza’s were lining up on the counter and the single waitress seemed to be over-worked and struggling to keep up with demand. Our entree plates were only cleared when our pizza finally arrived, yet our original cutlery was left behind. The ginger beers arrived not long after, surprisingly accompanied by table water.

Diving into the pizza, the base was crusty on the outside and delicate and fluffy on the inside. The distinct freshness displayed the quality characteristics of handmade dough and can only be described as crusty perfection. The topping, although not abundant, provided proportionately chunky chicken pieces. The mozzarella was measured so not to overpower or create a greasy finish, but the yoghurt was more like mayonnaise and unfortunately detracted from the true tandoori flavour I was hoping for. Despite this slight disappointment it didn’t ruin the exceptional pizza.

Taking short breaks between slices, and almost finishing the whole pizza, we noticed that the salads had still not arrived. With contently stocked stomach’s we considered cancelling the salad when it soon appeared. Thankfully we only ordered a small serve and picked through the two choices. The herb roasted pumpkin salad was quite bland with slightly undercooked pearl barley and yoghurt lacking the spice I would expect to lift such an earthy flavoured dish.  The marinated beetroot salad on the other hand offered great flavour with a nutty, tart, sweet and salty mix from the wise choice of coordinated ingredients.

Earth’s Kitchen is certainly on the right track offering customers a healthy, local alternative for lunch. Whether they were unfortunately understaffed due to school holidays or merely not on top of their game, it was evident that they have made a name for themselves amongst the corporate community. Although not quite up to speed, the staff were polite and apologetic for the delays which is always welcomed and appreciated under these circumstances. I will certainly return for a second round to try more of the healthy delights on offer.

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Entree $5.90 - $24.90 (Grazing Board)
Salad $8.90 (side plate) or $16.90 - $18.90 (full serve)
Pizza $16.90 - $21.90
*Specials also available at daily prices

Where: 131 Pirie St, Adelaide, 5000
Trading: Monday to Thursday 7am - 4pm and Friday 7am - 9pm
Website: http://kitchenson.earthcommunities.com.au/
Contact: (08) 8215 0458
Email: kitchen@earthcommunities.com.au

Event Review
Beer Degustation Event

With my ears now finely tuned to Adelaide’s food & beverage grapevine I came across a prime piece of event information whilst at lunch with Paul Smith form the Prancing Pony Brewery. The Beer & Brewer Magazine were holding their annual dinner at the Earl of Leicester in Parkside. The event was to be a degustation including a large selection of drinks held at an establishment well known for their mammoth schnitzels and vast array of beers; my mouth was positively watering at the thought!

The format of the event would have any beer lover chomping at the bit. The evening started with pre-dinner drinks in the upstairs function room. It included 26 different beers and ciders predominantly from our great state of South Australia, but also some interstate and overseas contenders, from Western Australia, Germany, the UK and the US, to attempt to whisk our locally loyal tastebuds away. With an abundance of choices it was difficult to decide what to select. I didn’t make it through the entire list, but special mention must go to those tasted that I would certainly purchase in the future:

Prancing Pony Black Ale (SA)
Brewboys Ace of Spades (SA)
Acme IPA (USA)
Hills Apple Ginger Hybrid Cider (SA)
Vinaceous Forbidden Fruit Pear Cider (WA)

With a fierce hunger mounting, and a 5 course meal waiting, we stumbled downstairs to the restaurant and took our seats. As I browsed the evening’s menu we were greeted by Nathan Carter, of The Earl of Leicester, and David Lipman, Managing Director of Beer & Brewer Magazine. It quickly became evident that the 80 ale enthusiast’s appetites would soon be suppressed by the line-up of delectable dishes; all suitably matched with beers and ciders from participating breweries. The degustation menu read as follows:

Course 1:
Crispy skin pork belly with pulled pork wonton, seared scallop and saffron, apple puree.
Beer: Swell Wheat Belgian Wit 4.5% (SA)
Cider: Hills Apple Cider 5.0% (SA)

Course 2:
Confit duck leg risotto with fresh garden peas and sautéed pancetta.
Beers: Birbeck’s The Captain Australian Mild Ale 2.9% (SA)
James Squire The Chancer Golden Ale 4.5% (NSW)

Course 3:
Sticky BBQ beef rib with stout mash.
Beers: Coopers Celebration Ale 5.2% (SA)
Vale Ale IPA 5.5% (SA)

Course 4:
Individual espresso and dark chocolate tiramisu.
Beers: Prancing Pony Black Ale 6.0% (SA)
Barossa Milk Stout 7.0% (SA)
Southwark Old Stout 7.4% (SA)

Course 5:
Shared cheese platter.
Beers: Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager 9% (USA)
Fuller’s Bottle Conditioned 2011 Vintage Ale 8.5% (UK)
Barossa Imperial IPA, 94 IBU 8% (SA)

There was no doubt the menu would keep both kitchen and waiting staff on their toes with the designer degustation.  With Pork Belly as the opening dish, my salivary glands were working overtime before the meal even arrived. Pouring the Adelaide Hills apple cider into the aptly provided champagne flute, the stage was set for a tastebud tantalising evening.

The second course, confit duck risotto, arrived shortly after the delicious Pork Belly and I uncharacteristically reached for the lighter and lesser known of the 2 brews matched with the meal. I chose Birbeck’s The Captain Australian Mild Ale (2.9%) as I needed a small break from some of the heavier beers already consumed earlier in the night. The Mild Ale was a very refreshing and complimented the slight saltiness and unusually porridge like consistency of the risotto.

The BBQ beef rib and stout mash for the 3rd course was melting and moist in its consistency. As I slowly savoured each mouthful I faced the tough decision of choosing between the craft or somewhat more commercial ale. As it happened, my decision was taken away as I got to enjoy the best of both worlds, enjoying the Cooper’s and the Vale ale before the next course was served.

Although dessert isn’t usually my most anticipated course I could hardly pass up an espresso and dark chocolate tiramisu matched with Prancing Pony Black Ale, Barossa Milk Stout and a Southwark Old Stout. Reaching straight for my favourite local hills brew, the Prancing Pony dark ale I discovered that it was a perfect accompaniment to the flavour and texture of the tiramisu. Not wanting to miss out on trying another new beverage, I also poured the Barossa Milk Stout and utilised the last scraping’s of my dessert to digest the smooth, sweet serve. It was almost tempting to pour the stout into the glass to flush the remaining traces.

By now the buzz in the room was well and truly alive and the tables, chock-a-block with a wide variety of brews that had become a blurred haze of who’s who and what was what. The final, and possibly most exciting, ales were still to be served. The closing course, a share platter of cheeses, was handed out with the three final ales being placed; these included the limited release Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager and the Fuller’s Bottle Conditioned 2011 Vintage Ale. The journey to these ales was a long adventure, but one well worth the wait.

I must commend the Earl of Leicester and The Beer & Brewer Magazine on a well organised and executed event. The overwhelming feeling from others I had spoken to throughout the night was one of enthusiasm and pure enjoyment. They loved the format, the food and of course the paring of a drink that can only be described as ‘God’s Nectar’. The inclusion of guest speakers from 11 local breweries and industry experts throughout the evening kept interest elevated. Being able to listen to, and meet, some truly passionate leaders in the industry was an absolute highlight. The speakers included:

Dr Tim Cooper, Coopers Brewery
Paul Smith, Prancing Pony Brewery
Denham D’Silva, Barossa Valley Brewing
Tobias Kline, The Hills Cider Company
Jeff Wright, McLaren Vale Brewing Co.
Jared Birbeck, Birbeck's Brewing Co.
Tony Jones, West End Brewery
Karli Small, West End Brewery
Dan Wright, Swell Brewing Co.
Brenton Quirini, Empire Liquor
Ryan Davidson, Palais Imports

Michael Weldon, MasterChef

Although this was not my first dining experience at the Earl of Leicester, it was certainly the largest and most mind-blowing. The event will certainly resonate with me for many years to come (notwithstanding some foggy points).

Even though this was an annual event, I must recommend heading to the Parkside pub for one of their super-sized schnitzels, bountiful burgers or other mouth-watering meals. While you are there you can also work your way around their ‘World of Beers’ challenge or simply try their ever evolving line-up of craft beers in the front bar.

Darren Richards

Where: 85 Leicester Street, Parkside, 5063
Trading: Liars Bar: Mon – Sat 12pm – 12am & Sun 12pm – 10pm
Bistro: Mon – Sun 12pm – 2:30pm & 5:30pm – 9pm
Restaurant: Mon – Sun 12pm – 3pm & 6pm – 9pm
Website: http://www.earl.com.au/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/earlofleicesterhotel
Contact: (08) 8271 5700

Lunch Review
French/Korean Fusion

In need of a venue for a boys lunch with long term friends Paul and Michael, I was on the lookout for somewhere new and funky in the city. I tapped out some research on the web and came across a restaurant in Wakefield St which had opened in December called La Bonne Table.

Booking in advance I asked if BYO wine was accepted.  I was advised that there would be a corkage charge of $15 which I felt was reasonable compared to many other restaurants. Knowing I would like to take some premium wines (2008 Rockford’s Basket Press Shiraz and a Langmiel Bella Rouge Rosé) I also requested if decanters were available and if I could reserve one for the table. The staff member was more than happy to oblige.

On the day the weather was sweltering outside and I was very hot and parched. I was greeted at the door and immediately taken to the table where the waiter, Tony, noticed my discomfort and wasted no time in serving ice water and offering an ice cold refreshing ale to quench my thirst. As the first mouthful evaporated on my tongue Tony asked if I would like the Rosé refrigerated and the Basket Press chilled just to take the edge off. Although this caught me by surprise I was impressed and more than delighted with first impressions of the service on offer.

As Paul and Michael arrived we ordered a couple more beers so they too could recover from the heat, relax, cool down and examine the menu. The first thing I noticed was that the menu seemed slightly basic, not in its ingenuity, but the number of dishes available. I could have easily chosen from the available lunch menu, but I had spied something which sparked my interest and decided to see if I could stretch the kitchen. I called Tony over and asked if there was any chance I could order from the dinner menu instead and he kindly replied that he would check with the kitchen. Soon after he returned and confirmed our request, so we ordered the following:

Entree share plates:
Charcuterie plate (mixed cured meats and caper berries).
12 natural oysters, sauce mignonette, ½ bloody Mary.
King fish sashimi, lardo ‘au gratin’, chilli vinaigrette, water cress.

For mains:
Michael: Confit salmon, potato colcannon, semi dried tomato, citrus beuree blanc, truffle oil.
Paul: Crumbled pork rib eye, calvados glazed apple, roasted new potato.
Myself: 1/2kg Tomahawk steak (rib eye), whole grain mustard, pickles.

As the entrees were brought to the table, we made way for the large wooden charcuterie board and two plates of seafood. Everything looked extremely fresh and appetising. The oysters were a tad small but it was consistent for the time of the year. I started with an oyster and a dash of bloody Mary sauce and instantly the temperature outside suddenly burst into my mouth with blistering force. The powerful flavour combination of Tabasco and pepper was just too intense and overthrew the oceanic taste of the mollusc - even for a spicy food lover like myself. Wanting to appreciate the true essence of the oyster, I made way for the lime and black pepper (sauce mignonette) option before having another crack at the liquid inferno.

Moving onto the king fish sashimi I was excited to be eating one of my favourite fish - the steak of the sea. Unfortunately the flavour didn’t live up to expectation. The dish had a bland texture and there was no feeling of the ‘deep blue sea dancing on my tongue’. I asked the waiter, Tony, over and we shared our feedback on the dish. In no time at all Tony whizzed it away and returned to offer his sincere apologies and notify us that the dish would be at no charge.  Following closely behind Tony was head chef and owner, Kim to offer his apologies and feedback on the dish. Not only is this rare but it is almost unheard of and I must say I was overwhelmed that he was willing to discuss the dish and provide an explanation without making excuses or pointing blame.

Our attention shifted to the charcuterie plate whilst conversation dwelled on the outstanding service and sheer compassion of the staff. Nearing the end of the cured meaty goodness, we were once again delivered a surprise from the kitchen with a second plate of king fish sashimi. It was explained that the usual ‘lardo au gratin’ technique of ‘flaming the fat’ may have in this case somewhat diminished the subtle fish flavour. To our absolute delight they were completely correct, the expectations we had of the first dish were now alive in the second.

As the empty plates were cleared, the decanted Basket Press was brought over to the table in readiness for the main dishes. After a perfect breather between courses, the mains made their entry. My anticipation for the arrival of my ½ kg Tomahawk rib eye steak was instantly dashed when it landed on the table in front of me. What should have been an awe inspiring dish that makes neighbouring tables envious due to its monstrous dinosaur-like bone, instead brought on a tearful sigh. Where was the ginormous rib bone that should be overhanging the plate and poking my neighbour in the arm? Unfortunately it had been chopped off with a cleaver. Nevertheless, I made my first incision and thankfully the knife glided through the seared bovine flesh like butter and it melted in my mouth – the taste and quality of the Tomahawk rib eye freed my mind of earlier concerns.

Both Michael and Paul offered tastings of their dishes and as hard as it was to draw myself away from the steak I could see from their expressions that they too were more than satisfied with their selections. Being a great lover of both salmon and swine I gracefully parted with a portion of my rib eye in exchange. I was not disappointed with the trade either as both of their dishes were cooked to perfection. The salmon was medium with a perfect pinkish hue layered through the centre and the succulent pork was well accompanied by glazed apple pieces.

I was absolutely floored by the lengths the staff and chef had gone to. I am the first to admit that I can be overly critical, but I also provide recognition where it is due. On this occasion sending a glass of the Basket Press to the kitchen for the chef and one to Tony for his service along with a healthy tip at the settlement of the bill seemed hardly enough. We made sure that our exit wasn’t too swift and made our way to the counter to thank all the staff for the food, service and understanding of our constructive criticism.

It is due to restaurants, staff and chefs like we encountered at La Bonne Table that I have such a passion for the industry and writing my findings. I commend the whole team on providing an outstanding dining experience. I will most definitely be revisiting this urbanised warehouse very soon with more guests to share the experience. I recommend you do too.

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Salad $14.00 - $17.00
Entree $15.00 - $24.00
Main $25.00 - $27.00
Dessert $13.00 - $15.00
Cheese 2 choices - $17.00, 3 choices - $24.00, 4 choices - $32.00
(Brunch and Dinner menus also available)

Where: 128 Wakefield St, Adelaide, 5000
Trading: Tuesday to Saturday 11:30am – 3pm, Wednesday - Saturday 6pm – 12pm
Website: facebook.com/pages/La-Bonne-Table
Contact: (08) 8223 2487
Email: lbtable@gmail.com

Dinner Review.
Modern Australian/Mediterranean.

After attending the official opening of the funky new Franklin St establishment called Public and tasting an eclectic spread of the bar menu, I was eager to head back and dive into their more fanciful fare from what is labelled the ‘surprise dinner’ menu. Head Chef and Electrolux Australia’s 2012 Young Chef of the Year, Stewart Wesson, recreates a new and exciting menu each week to entice punters in. Unlike most restaurants that have a static or seasonal menu, this allows Stewart’s creativity to shine and keeps customer’s tastebuds savouring new delights.

Wandering into the restaurant, I took in the clean flair of the decor which has a refreshing style throughout the cafe, bar and restaurant areas. The owner greeted me and asked Alex to escort me to the table. Accompanying me for the evening was Michael, winner of a competition from my Facebook food blog: McFuzzlebutt’s Manchen.

Taking my seat at the table I was asked if I would like my wine to be opened to breathe; I requested it be decanted. Knowing that I wouldn’t be pouring any for at least 30 minutes, it would allow the wine to open up. Not knowing what to expect from the menu, I brought a Fox Creek 2008 Reserve Merlot which would be a great all-rounder for seafood, white meat or red meat due to its mellower flavours compared to a Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was a relatively warm day so we decided to start with a refreshing ale to cleanse our palates. Looking over the drinks menu, I was a little disappointed at the lack of craft beers. With an ever-growing microbrewery industry across Australia I enjoy trying, and supporting, the more artisan style beers – perhaps there is an opportunity here to diversify on the commercial choices currently offered.

With 3 entree, 5 main and 2 dessert options on the evenings menu, you would think that the decision making process would be swift, however all of the options offered tantalising ingredients and included local SA produce which positively stilted our momentum. Since both Michael and I were struggling to choose we agreed on halving our meal choices to ward off any food envy.  Being a curious and finicky eater I asked Alex where the octopus was from and if it was fresh, along with what cut and size the fillet of steak was. Unfortunately it was only Alex’s first week but she was only too happy to find out and scurried off to the kitchen to retrieve all answers in an efficient manner.

For entree we ordered the following:
Michael: Heirloom tomatoes, basil pesto, bocconcini and dried olive
Myself: Braised Local Octopus, apple and aioli (fresh Kangaroo Island octopus)

For mains we ordered the following:
Michael: SA Angus beef fillet, butter poached Moreton Bay bug tail and caramelised onion (250g grilled eye fillet)
Myself: Murray Valley pork cutlet, braised cabbage, pancetta and apple
Sides: Broccolini and a Public Slaw.

When the entrees were presented we could immediately tell that we were in for a treat. The heirloom tomato assortment looked stunning and the colours danced on the plate. Their freshness and slightly sweet acidity broke through the soft bocconcini and earthy bitterness of the crunchy dried olive creating a unified marriage on the palate. The braised octopus was wonderfully tender with a smoky char-grilled flavour which coupled well with the shaved apple and aioli.

Relaxing with another cold beer Michael noticed a patron in the bar eating mini burgers from their bar menu. Being cheeky at the best of times, I thought I would flutter my eyelashes and politely ask if we could sneak some in before mains. Once again, Alex whooshed away and returned with the answer we were hoping for. Soon after, we received our wagyu burger and pork belly burger with shoestring fries on the side.  The burgers were halved and utter silence came over us as we shovelled the deliciously moist, tender meat filled, soft buttery buns into our mouths. How could anything be better than this?

Wiping the juice from our mouths and fingers, I requested a 15 – 20 minute interlude before mains to allow us to digest the first 2 courses and make room for more. Our glasses were filled with the Fox Creek Merlot and we sat back and relaxed in the softly lit restaurant to soak up the ambiance around us. Alex returned and replaced Michael’s standard knife with a Laguiole steak knife. As I frowned jealously Alex asked if I too would like one, to which I replied “yes” without hesitation.

At almost 20 minutes to the second, we were presented with our mains and our glasses topped again. The pork was well seasoned with a crisp rind crackling - I just wanted to finish it all until I was handed the beef fillet. It was sheer ecstasy; the beef melted away as it hit my tongue and moans replaced words as I cleaned up the plate.

I managed to conjure up enough courage to battle through to dessert and ordered a serve of popcorn pannacotta. Thankfully the portion was just right; the sweetness was well balanced by the salty caramel and it provided a light scrumptious ending to a faultless meal.

Full to the brim and with a smile from ear to ear we were both elated evening’s proceedings. The service was exceptional, even when I made several spontaneous requests in an attempt to throw them off; I was pleasantly rewarded with affirmative answers and actions. With a bright, vibrant, city centre residence, I have no doubt Public will be a favourite amongst the corporate breakfast, lunch and Friday night eaters, drinkers and diners. When you do visit Public be sure to wash your hands, the orange, sage and cedar wood hand wash is so amazing, you’ll want to devour that too.

Darren Richards

Average Menu Pricing
Entree $12.00 - $14.00
Main $26.00 - $34.00
Side Dishes $7.50
Dessert $12.00
(Friday surprise dinner menu changes weekly. Bar and kitchen menus also available)

Where: 12 Franklin St, Adelaide, 5000
Trading: Monday to Thursday 7am – 5pm, Friday 7am – 12am (bookings recommended)
Website: publiccbd.com.au
Contact: (08) 8231 8151